1. After placing the vehicle on jackstands, remove the wheels, shocks, and factory crash bar. Partially detach the swaybar and steering rack as well. You’ll also have to disconnect the forward driveshaft at the front end. If the bolts are sticky on any of the above items, you may need to apply heat from a propane torch to remove thread-locking compound (this tip does not apply, however, to the Pitman Arm, as noted below).

2. Install the Pro Comp front shackles.

3. Bolt on the hanger drops supplied with the Pro Comp package.

4. Install new front leaf springs; note the bigger arch and the larger number of leaves, six instead of only two found on the factory units.

5a. If necessary, cut off excess length of U-bolts with a die grinder.

5b. If necessary, cut off excess length of U-bolts with a die grinder.

6. Bolt on the longer end-links for the swaybar.

7. Use a Pitman arm puller to remove — you guessed it — the Pitman arm. Important: Don’t try to get away with using a torch to heat the arm in order to remove it. You’ll probably burn the seals on the steering box before the arm comes loose.

8. The new Pittman arm fits in the stock location, but provides a longer link to the steering rack.

9. Install the new Pro Comp track bar mount.

10. Pre-assemble the dual shock hoop with the MX-6 reservoir shocks, making sure the hose fittings face on the inboard side.

11. The longer bump stops are normally installed before bolting on the shock hoop assemblies.

12. This step is out of the usual sequence. Normally the crash bar would be installed earlier on (when the springs are fitted into the hanger drops), but the part arrived late. So we simply unbolted the front ends of the leaf springs and used a plastic hammer for some gentle persuasion to fit it between the hanger drops.

13. After drilling holes for the mounts on the dual shock hoops, fasten tightly with the provided bolts. Also use screw-type, metal hose clamps to secure the shock reservoirs.

14. Install the aluminum driveshaft spacer on the aft end of the forward shaft. Note: For high-speed applications, such as desert racing, the driveshaft should be lengthened instead.

15. Install spacer block for intermediate shaft bearing.

1. After removing the factory leaf springs (top of photo; note the fewer number of leaves and flatter arch), transfer the mounting hardware and bottom leaf to Pro Comp lifting springs.

2. If you don’t have a telescoping hydraulic lift to move the axle or position the leaf springs, you’ll probably need some help from a friend. Those springs are real heavy.

3. You many need to use the factory shocks’ mounting sleeve on the bottom end of the MX-6 shocks. Otherwise, they simply bolt into the stock location.

4. Be sure to securely clamp the reservoirs in place.

5. This is how the completed rear lift should look.

1. Use a press or vise to install the inner components into the Poly Flex tubes.

2. Thread the Poly Flex assemblies onto the ends of the traction bars. Leave less than an inch of thread showing.

3. Then grease the slip yoke and slide on the boot, and put the slip yoke into the traction bar. Then assemble the lower bracket with the threaded Poly Flex.

4. For the next step, the weight of the vehicle must be on the rear axle. With the help of another person or jack stands, hold the lower bracket against the axle.

5. Then raise the opposite end of the traction bar up to the outside of the frame, while keeping the traction bar perpendicular to the axle.

6. Position the slip yoke about three inches from the end of the traction bar and inside the upper bracket. Mark the vehicle frame for the four holes in the bracket. Drill the vehicle frame at the four marked locations. Using two bolts and nuts to temporarily hold the upper bracket to the frame, mark the center hole. This mark must be straight. Otherwise the slip yoke can not be mounted straight. Daystar recommends inserting the slip yoke inside the bracket and then marking the hole location on the frame. After removing the upper bracket and drilling the mounting holes, bolt on the upper bracket using all the nuts and washers. Insert the slip yoke into the upper bracket and insert a 9/16-inch bolt through the bracket, Poly Flex and frame. Loosely attach a nut to hold the bolt in place.

7. Scrape the paint off the axle to bare metal for a proper weld surface. Re-align the lower bracket onto the frame so the traction bar is perpendicular to the axle and straight with the frame. Mark the sides of the lower bracket where it attaches to the frame. Remove the traction bar or swing it out of the way. Prior to welding, it may be necessary to remove the inside U-bolt for better access. After tack welding the lower bracket to the axle in a few places on each side, verify the alignment of the slip yoke into the upper bracket. If it doesn’t line up properly, break the tack welds and reposition. Prior to final welding of the brackets, remove the traction bar completely to prevent damage to it.

8. Once the welding is complete, bolt the traction bar into the upper bracket. Then align the traction bar to the lower bracket, and adjust the Poly Flex and jam nut as needed. Bolt the traction bar into the lower bracket, and reinstall the U-bolt if necessary. After bolting the traction bar into all the brackets, use a grease gun to lubricate each of the four Zerk fittings.